Half a degree out for three weeks is enough to ruin a hatch. A second, checked thermometer is the cheapest insurance you can buy.
Your incubator’s display shows what its own sensor reads. Sensors can drift over time or sit in a spot that is warmer or cooler than the eggs. A separate thermometer and hygrometer placed among the eggs tells you what the eggs actually feel. If the two disagree by more than about 0.3 °C, find out which one is right before you set eggs.
Ice-water test. Fill a glass with crushed ice and top up with cold water. Stir, wait a few minutes, and put the probe in the middle. It should read 0 °C. Note any difference and correct your readings.
For extra certainty, compare it with a medical (clinical) thermometer, which is accurate around body temperature.
Salt test. Put a few spoons of table salt in a small cap and add a little water to make a damp paste (not a solution). Seal it with the hygrometer in a zip-lock bag and leave it for 8–12 hours at room temperature. It should read 75 %. The difference is your correction.
Wet bulb thermometers are an older, reliable way to measure humidity: a wick keeps one bulb wet, and the wet-bulb temperature converts to humidity with a chart. Then set humidity with the humidity guide.
Every model has automatic turning, digital temperature and humidity control and a 2-year warranty. Pay cash on delivery or by EFT.
Yes, at least to check the incubator’s display before each hatch. Sensors drift and a small error over 21 days hurts the hatch.
Use the salt test: seal the hygrometer with a damp salt paste for 8–12 hours. It should read 75 %.
At egg level in the middle of a tray in a forced air incubator, and at the top of the eggs in a still air incubator.