An incubator (setter) grows the embryo; a hatcher is where the chicks break out. Here is when one machine is enough and when a separate hatcher pays for itself.
The setter is the incubator most people picture. It holds the eggs for the first 18 days (for chickens), turning them automatically at about 37.5 °C and 45–55 % humidity.
The hatcher takes over for the last three days. Turning stops, humidity goes up to about 65–75 %, and the eggs lie flat in hatching baskets so the chicks can pip, zip and dry off. Hatching is messy: fluff, shell and membrane everywhere.
No, when you hatch in batches. Most small and medium farms set a full load, run it for 21 days, clean the machine and set again. One incubator does both jobs: you stop turning and raise humidity on day 18.
Yes, when you set eggs every week. If you set new eggs weekly (staggered hatching), the setter must keep turning while older eggs hatch. Then a separate hatcher is needed, because hatching eggs need no turning and higher humidity, and hatch fluff should stay away from the setter.
Clean and disinfect the hatcher after every hatch. Fluff and shell carry bacteria that cause navel infections and weak chicks. See why eggs don’t hatch for the other common causes of poor hatches.
Every model has automatic turning, digital temperature and humidity control and a 2-year warranty. Pay cash on delivery or by EFT.
An incubator (setter) turns the eggs and holds them for most of incubation. A hatcher holds them for the last three days with no turning and higher humidity while the chicks hatch.
Yes. If you hatch one batch at a time, stop turning and raise humidity on day 18 and hatch in the same machine.
On day 18 for chicken eggs, day 25 for Pekin duck and turkey eggs and day 14 or 15 for quail eggs.